Santiago II

Santiago

After some days in Valparaiso, I decided to go back to Santiago. I  really wanted to see more of the city, and when I found a company with bike tours, I decided to take a few days to see the city by bike.

I stayed in the same apartment complex. It was very central and quite cheap. This time my apartment did not have a great view of the city, which was a little bit annoying as the smoke had now disappeared, and I was finally able the see city and the mountains around.

Bike tours

I went on a total of 3 bike tours – 2 in the city and 1 on a vineyard very close to the city. The guides were incredibly sweet and gave me a huge amount of information about Chile and Santiago. None of them were Chileans, which can be an advantage. Their view of the country does some time gives some answers the locals don’t have.

For example, I had many times during my trip wondered why there were so many dogs living in the streets. You see them all over Argentina and Chile, but I had never really received an answer. For the locals it is so natural. My biking guide did have a Chilean father but was raised in Europe and she told us, it started about 50 years ago when the people from rural areas moved into the city. They all had a dog, but it was not easy to keep them in apartments on the 5th floor, so they just lived on the street. As they got puppies, there were more and more dogs in the streets, that did not really belong anywhere and their descendants are still there. However the locals love the dogs and they are very well cared for.

Santiago or Santiago de Chile as it also called is not beautiful but the city center can be nice and peaceful with parks along the Mapocho river. The city was cleaned up a few years ago and places that at the time were a no go, for most people, are now small parks with playgrounds for kids. The city also have a couple of great view points. Santa Lucia – a small hill, very popular also for the locals. I have never seen so many people kissing each other in one place as during my walk around on the hill. Many young people stay with their parents until late twenties and very often in a small places, so everywhere with a green spot is a popular place to get a little time with the girl or boyfriend.

San Christobal

Another viewpoint is San Christobal Hill. Here you can take a cable car up to enjoy the view of the city and see a giant Christ figure. On the way up there is a stop at the zoo entrance. At the top which covers a huge area and have many different activities, it is possible to be transferred with a gondola. However, it can take a long time as there can be long queues everywhere.

Just below the hill is the bohemian quarter Bellavista with galleries, restaurants and the nightlife. It is also  colorful during the day as many houses are decorated with wall paintings.

Mapocho market 

The city is divided into areas with each their charm. Next to the river and close to the old city quarter you have the Mapocho market a fish market and restaurants in a very beautiful building and just on the other side of the river is a huge market area with the La Vega Central market. There you can get all kind of South American fruit and vegetables, and especially the Peruvian stalls are very popular. The Peruvian food and restaurants are very popular in Santiago and known being the best kitchen. Close to the market you can also find streets with small shops with all kind of stuff.

El Golf – Sanhatten

A little outside the center where there used to be vineyards, there is now a new city El Golf also called Sanhattan with a reference to be Santiagos Manhatten. It is Skyscrabers thet have changed the city’s skyline housing a new financial district with hotels, ​​offices, shopping centers and apartments. Because of the danger of earthquakes Santiago did historically not have any really tall buildings, and for the same reason not nearly as many big monuments as you see in Buenos Aires. 

Cousiño Macul wineyard

The vineyard I visited is located within the city. Overlooking the skyscrapers on one side and the mountains to the other side. The vineyard is still owned by the family that originally founded it, but since most of the original vineyards have been turned into houses the activities and wine production have been moved to new areas outside the city. There are still a few vineyards left which I was able to investigate by bike. From  a shop it is possible to buy and taste wine, and the wine cellars are now being used as a museum.

As readers of the blog have probably noticed, I stay away from writing about food, but here is a little info as an exception.

Empanadas is a special type of sandwich that I have eaten in both Argentina and Chile. In Argentina you can eat about 3 pieces with different content for lunch. You do NOT do that in Chile unless you are very very hungry. Especially in Santiago and Valparaiso I think they were huge. I’m not sure I ever managed to finish one, even though they taste great.

In Argentina, you drink Mate. I actually think you do that all over South America, but in Argentina they walk around with special bags that fit a thermo bottle with hot water, a Mate mug and of course the Mate tea leaves. Mate is a special kind of tea that you drink from a special mug with a metal straw. You drink it in the company of others like friends or family and they all drink of the same mug. Fresh Mate is filled in the mug and depending on the taste also sugar and then filled with hot water. When the first one has finished the mug, it is handed back and more water is filled on before it is handed to the next person and so it goes un until they find it necessary to add fresh leaves or until next time. I often saw it shared between the driver and guide on my tours. In the morning I saw people getting their thermo bottles filled with hot water, and in the street people walked around with the special bags or just carrying the thermo bottle in hand. In Buenos Aires friends meet each other in mate cafes.

It tastes ok – maybe a little bitter when you are not used to it. When i tried it the first time, I was afraid it would be like tasting marmite but luckily not close. I did not have any problems emptying the mug before handing it back.

In Chile they drink Mote or more precisely “Mote con huesillo”. It is also tea but cold and served with peeled wheat grains and a dried peach that has been cooked in sugar and cinnamon. (Mote is pronounced meut and peach in Spanish is huesillo).

You can get several varieties, and on a trip up to San Christobel on a hot summer day you must have one. Like everybody else.

Summary

i am happy I went back to see more of the city and get a lot more information about Chile and the Chileans from my great bike guide. getting around on bike is highly recommended. The city i completely flat so it is an easy way to get around. I could easily have spent a few more days but that will have to be another time

Link to Santiago Photos